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Pond Volume Calculator
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Gravel  or  No  Gravel  in  Your  Ponds

"Maybe the biggest distinction should be wheather your pond is for watergardening or for a koi pond"?

Listed below are some of the many do's and don'ts for putting gravel in the bottom of your ponds.
I have listed these comments pro's and con's!
Most of us in the Springfield Watergarden Society, do not have gravel in our ponds.  There are very strong ideas among pond builders, here in Springfield, and in our own watergarden society about the subject.

The information below is just the tip of the iceberg on the subject.  Do your homework before you build your next pond.  Remember, the fish could care less if there are rocks in the bottom of their home.  Someone said one time that fish require good water, food, and occasional spawning to make them happy.

That safe water is what we need to be concerned about.  Can you afford to make your pond a natural ecosystem using gravel and try to emulate nature.  I personally would prefer no gravel.

Much of this information below was taken from chat groups on different websites.  The comments are posted to make you think about the subject.  Purely food for thought.

Dave Simmons (the Web Manager)
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Read on please:

To add to the comments about rocks in the bottom of a pond, I ask people if they remember shag carpeting. It was pretty on top but nasty on the bottom. Rocks or pea-gravel in the bottom of a pond will do the same over a period of time; debris, dust, pollen, seeds will settle in the cracks and crevices of the gravel and cause anaerobic problems. In aquariums this no problem because they are inside the home, but outdoors we are at Mother Nature's whims. I know people who own garden pond maintenance companies and they will not clean ponds with gravel in the bottom. If the pond owner must have the gravel then mortar it in. The old timers who have been installing ponds forever will not put loose gravel in the bottom of ponds and pure koi lovers will not have gravel in their ponds. Some installers will also plant lilies directly in the gravel and, talk about a nightmare! As we all know some lilies are such aggressive growers that the tubers can run the length of some ponds.

Linda Siler

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"...I see both sides of this discussion, as usual. If you like the looks of the rock, and are willing to do all that extra maintenance to clean it as frequently as is needed, and you are not trying to keep high quality koi in their optimum environment, then there is that segment of the hobby who are going to keep their rocks on the bottom of their ponds."
~ Quoted from: Doc Conrad

Why you should not not use gravel on bottom of a pond.

In any pond at any time, there are a range of bacteria present. These bacteria are consuming waste products to survive. Some need oxygen to survive ... called aerobic bacteria and others do not. The latter are called anaerobic bacteria. In our pond we want lots of aerobic and preferably very few anaerobic ones since the latter tend to be involved with infections and unpleasant smelly situations.
If you have ever walked through the mud in a natural pond you will have noticed a sulphurous type smell and this would have been the result of anaerobic bacteria living in the mud (no oxygen there) and they metabolise using sulphur compounds amongst others.
It makes sense therefore to create garden ponds to avoid or at least limit the possibility of creating stagnant areas where these anaerobic bacteria can live and multiply.
Now consider a pond which has got gravel on bottom (like you would see in an aquarium) and ask yourself what happens to any food or fish excretions that settle down into the bottom of the pond ... yes of course they work their way down through the gravel where they build up in the absence of oxygen since no fresh water containing oxygen can reach these dead spots. These regions become breeding grounds for anaerobic bacteria. All sorts of problems can occur as a result.
In the early days of pond keeping gravel bottoms were popular because there was not a full understanding of what happens in ponds and the "technology" was based upon aquarium knowledge. The point about aquariums is that it is easy to vacuum the gravel using a minitiature vacuum pump ... in a pond this cannot be done.
In koi ponds great trouble is taken to ensure nothing stays on bottom of ponds through the use of bottom drains to minimize anaerobic bacteria possibilities. Removal of debris this way is for appearance reasons of course too. Because of the need to avoid anaerobic bacteria in pond water is a reason why sand filters are very bad for any type of pond ... dead anaerobic spots are inevitable in a sand filter.
If you already have gravel on your pond bottom then do yourself a favour and get rid of it before you create problems. The best time to do this now before water temperatures increase.( Southern hemisphere of course)

Beware the Stagnation Zone in Your Pond Gravel and Rock Form Dead Zone
by Joseph F. Cuny

It has been brought to my attention that some pond builders (both Koi and water garden) apparently are not familiar with basic pond design. In particular, I am referring to the use of gravel and rock inside the pond. As anyone who has been a pond keeper for a few years knows, that is a real no no. Possibly this practice is a direct carryover from the aquarium 'under gravel' filters, but it is a wrong application of the concept.
The problem is that the gravel and rock form a dead zone, more appropriately called a stagnation zone. Whether the pond has fish in it or only plants, there are all kinds of organic material produced in the pond. This organic material gets trapped in the stagnation zone and guess what happens? It stagnates! Since the water does not circulate very well in this zone, the water is deficient in dissolved oxygen, and the organics are processed anaerobically. In other words, the organic material rots or putrefies.
The end result of such putrefaction is the production of noxious gases and disease organisms. I do not know what effect these would have on plants but they are deadly on fish and are very unaesthetic. In time such a pond would smell like a cesspool! This is exactly what happens in an aquarium if the under gravel filter is not cleaned regularly. Even with oxygenated water flowing through such a filter, there are dead spots where the water does not flow and these have to be cleaned, usually with some type of vacuum or siphon system.
If it is necessary to put rocks on the bottom of a pond, possibly to simulate a natural stream, they should be well separated and bedded in mortar to allow flow around them and to eliminate pockets where debris could accumulate. The amount of work necessary to properly imbed gravel probably eliminates the use of gravel. If it is thought that the gravel will function as a filter, it should be placed such that it can be fairly easily cleaned. Despite claims made by various people, all filters must be cleaned. The only possible exception is the trickling filter type that is self cleaning, but in the process dumps the waste into the following stage where it must be captured and disposed of.
I have seen gravel filters built into a sump in the bottom of a pond. Such a filter is almost impossible to clean, and the resulting pond does not provide a healthy environment for the fish. With such a filter in a water garden, I would expect the same type of problems. I realize that many people believe that the root system of the plants provides space for the organisms that degrade the organic material, but this is not a suitable filter except for those organics that are soluble. Even these, when aerobically digested, result in material that falls to the bottom where it joins the leaves, stems, decaying roots, and so forth and then putrefies.
Joe Cuny is a founding editor and contributes to KOI USA since its beginning, over 20 years ago.

We put rocks and gravel on the bottom of the pond for a couple of reasons. The number one reason is for filtration of the pond. The rocks provide a huge amount of surface area for the bacteria to colonize on. This bacterial breaks down the fish waste and other organic debris that fall to the bottom. The second reason is to help lock the liner in place so that the water weight doesn't bring it down. The third main reason is aesthetics.

The presence of rocks and gravel make it difficult to clean your pond.
Rocks and gravel offer a natural place for aerobic bacteria to colonize and set up housekeeping. This bacteria breaks down the fish waste and debris that would otherwise accumulate in the pond and turn into sludge. Regardless of your pond’s location (i.e. close to trees and loads of leaves), or how many fish you have in it, you’ll find that having rocks and gravel in your pond not only makes it look better, but it makes it healthier as well. So contrary to the myth, having rocks and gravel on the bottom of your pond actually allows Mother Nature to clean up after herself.

There is more maintenance, but I don't agree with the statement that rocks on the bottom is lethal to fish. I mean, as long as you don't have a 10 inch layer of pebbles at the bottom. My pond has a very thin layer (1" or less) of rocks at the bottom just for cosmetic reasons and no old debris below it since I vacuum it monthly. I think a black, plain bottom looks too unnatural. My pond water has always tested PERFECT despite what others say about having rocks on the bottom. If you are willing to do monthly maintenance, you will be fine. Even ponds without rocks on the bottom require some sort of weekly or monthly maintenance. The fact is, fish eat and poop whether you have rocks or not. The poop gets trapped in the filters or settles on the bottom...Then bacterial degrades it. So whether you have rocks or not...I don't think there's much of a difference.
Ponds with natural bottoms - fish are ok despite mud and rocks on the bottom. Your pond will be ok with some pebbles/rocks on the bottom. Just don't go overboard.

"Send your comments to me at (NOTES TO DAVE) and I will be happy to post your responses on our site..  Thank you...."


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AN OVERVIEW OF FISH DISEASES:

 

In this article we will discuss parasites and protozoa that can attack your fish. These pests can also lead to many secondary problems.  You must not only kill the parasite, but you will probably have to treat for other infections as well. 

Look at the pictures below to help identify these pests in the near future. 

 

Also, when you are feeding your fish, it is a prime time to watch your fish and to detect any problems.  You need to have one white fish in your collection.  A white fish will show signs before any other fish because of the white color.  A white fish will will also show stress first and that will also be an indicator if your water chemistry is not perfect.  Any levels of ammonia or nitrites are deadly.  When toxins are at an unsafe level your fish will show physical signs of stress.  A white fish will take on a pink cast and signs of reddening will appear thoughout the body.

 

Fish Lice and Anchor Worm

Watch for these 2 parasites.  They are easily seen by the naked eye.  Fish Lice ( Argulus ) and Lernea ( Anchor Worm).  These pests are sucking parasites and they use tiny suckers to adhere to the surface of your fish.  They are easily seen on the fins or head. They can vary in color but are usually a dark green.  However, the younger lice can be almost invisible.  Since they are blood suckers, they can also inject bacteria or other toxic substances into the fish.  Lice will lay about 500 to a 1000 eggs on the surfaces of rocks.  It only takes about 4 weeks for the eggs to hatch. 

 

When applying medication to kill the parents, it must also be used to kill off all the generations that follows.  Some treatments may require more than a single application. If you do not use a follow up treatment, they will hatch outand find a host.  A young parasite can be on a fish for up to 6 weeks before you notice them.  Follow all directions for the medications to the letter. 

 

When lice and anchor worms bite a fish, bacteria such as Aeromonas ( Hole in Side Disease) and Pseudomonas can infect the skin. This bite can also cause ulcers and even death.

 

Recommended treatments for either parasite is Dimilin which is applied to the water,  (As always turn off your U.V.lights and follow directions). Do not guess on your gallons of water.  Do not guess on application rates.  Guessing will kill fish!

 

One of the main symptoms of Lice or Anchor Worms is that the fish will try dislodge the parasite. They flash thoughout the pond.  They will rub themselves against the sides and bottom. The parasite causes the fish great discomfort and they try to remove the parasite.  When you see anything out of the ordinary with your fish, be aware, and monitor them closely.

 

You should never add chemicals of any kind to your pond and leave.  Keep a close attention to your fish for any signs of stress or discomfort.

 

Flukes

Skin or Gill Flukes are a parasite that can not be seen by the naked eye. You should have a microscope and take a scraping to decide if your fish have these deadly parasites. These pest have hooks and use to attach themselves to their victims. Flukes, are both egg layers and live bearers. Flukes will cause the fish to exhibit classic forms of irritation. Gill flukes will suck on the gills of the fish.  The fish will show sings of distress such as clamping their gill plates close to their body or roll over on their sides. They will also stay to themselves and linger in the bottom of the pond.

 

Catch the fish you think might have gill flukes.  Gently pull back the gill plate and observe the condition of the gills.  They should be pink and not a yellow or grey color, and not be covered in mucus.  Treatment is mandatory or death will be a certainty.  Flukes are like fleas on cats or dogs.  It's common to see one or two on a single slide.  A healthy fish can control parasite numbers and their mucus slime coat can help prevent the parasite from moving.  However, if flukes are seen in larger numbers, treatment is necessary.

 

Flukes will also carry aeromonas bacteria. Treatment is with Formalin.  Care should be used when using this product.   Cold water will cause the formalin to sink and it will be hard to disperse for a full treatment.  Formalin will also cause oxygen levels to drop and destruction of good bacteria in your filter.  I prefer to use Supaverm with salt as my choice of treatment, (as always no U.V. lights during treatments)  A course of 10 days is suggested for this treatment.

 

Shown below are other diseases and problems fish might have.  More information will be added to this page in the near future.  Check back.....

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POND FUNGUS

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DROPSEY - PINE CONE EFFECT

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DROPSEY - PINE CONE EFFECT

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POPEYE

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TRICHODINA - CILIATE PROTOZOAN - FLASHING

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POX (CARP POX)

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ULCER ON HEAD - SICK POND

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ICH - ON FIN

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ICH

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FLAVOBACTERIA COLUMNARIS INFECTION (COTTON-LIKE)

SOME OF THE ABOVE PICTURES OF DISEASES ARE NOT DISCUSSED IN THE PREVIOUS ARTICLE.  MORE INFORMATION WILL FOLLOW.  IF YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC QUESTION ABOUT ANY DISEASE OR FISH PROBLEM YOU HAVE, CONTACT THIS SITE OR YOUR LOCAL WATER GARDEN EXPERT.

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ANCHOR WORM

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ANCHOR WORM

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FISH LICE (COLORED)

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ARGULUS - FISH LICE